Milk and king snakes are excellent, docile snakes. Milk and king snakes are firmly related, both belonging to the Lamproletis family, and there are a few subspecies of both milk and king snakes. Patterns and colors differ between the subspecies, but there are many striking and delightful patterns to be found among these snakes.
Choosing a Snake
Things to search for in a strong and healthy snake (any sort of snake):
- Round, firm body.
- Clear eyes (might be somewhat shady if going to shed), no discharge from eyes.
- No indications of bugs (check particularly around head/eyes, search for dusty spots on the body, and check hands after holding the snake).
- No open mouth breathing or wheezing for breath.
- Inside of mouth consistently pink (cheesy looking matter or reddened area may indicate mouth rot).
- Shiny, smooth skin without any scabs or wounds.
- Clean vent with no swelling.
- Should move easily without any tremors.
A safe cage is essentially vital – king snakes are famous for testing their cages for weak spots and getting away from the littlest of spaces. Any cage requires a latched and secure top. Bear in mind that setting up a cage like this might be expensive but it will be justified, despite all the trouble. Remember that snakes can get past spaces that are so little and doesn’t possible to pass through. Putting plastic tubing (like aquarium carrier tubing) between the edge of the tank and the top may likewise help avert escapes.
Milk and king snakes ought not to be kept in one cage because they won’t hesitate to eat each other when they get the chance. Won’t eliminate the bad situation, though. You’ll want to use a Best Snake Bite Kit for that.
For a substrate in the tank, an assortment of materials can be utilized. For new snakes, paper towels or butcher paper are perfect to encourage cleaning and permit observing of defecation until the specific the snake is free of parasites.
Different substrates that can be used are aspen shavings, mulch, reptile bark, or outdoor-indoor carpeting (never use pine, redwood or cedar). If you settle for shavings, it is critical to ensure it isn’t ingested with the snake’s food because it could lead to serious health issues.
Whatever is utilized, neatness is critical. Ensure you pick something that you will have the capacity to clean as regularly as you can.
Milk and king snakes are fed mice or infant rodents. When in doubt, feed the snake only what is equivalent to the width of the snake at its most stretched out part (the head not included). Young snakes (subadult) ought to be fed twice weekly. Fully grown snakes can be fed adult mice (or weanling rodents) on more than one occasion per week. Similarly, as with several snakes, pre-killed prey recommended to ensure the prey does not harm the snake.
After allowing the snake a few days to settle in, you can begin handling it. Be delicate and diligent, with day by day short sessions at first to build up the required trust. Regurgitation is moderately basic in these snakes and can come about if you handle them too soon after a meal. Other reasons could be as a result of illness, too cold enclosure or that the meal is too large. If it does keep reoccurring after you have taken the necessary adjustments and it keeps recurring, check with a vet.